Friday, October 1, 2010

Udaipur to Deogarh

Today I travel from Udaipur to Deogarh.  Deogarh itself is not much of a tourist destination but there is a fort, Kumbhal Garh, and a Jain Temple that are must-sees and Deogarh marks a good stopping off spot for the evening.

The road to Deogarh is a 1 lane, windy mountain road that has been severely degraded by the monsoons.  It takes 2 Cokes, a bag of cheese puffs and 4 sticks of mint gum to keep me from vomiting in the backseat (TMI, I know).  The landscape here however is fantastic.  It is lush and green and for some reason reminds me of the Alps, in "Sound of Music".  The are no safe places to stop for photos and I am not sure I could stand up long enough to take them anyhow.

Eventually we arrive at the fort.  I am happy to be out of the car.  I have no guide and am to explore the fort on my own however I am quickly mobbed by tourists anxious to get their photo taken with the Westerner and my driver must intercede and escort me through the fort.  I have no history to give on the fort as all of the plaques are in Hindi but the views are great.
Road to Deogarh


Entrance to Kumbhal Garh Fort








 After the fort we get back on the road, unfortunately, and head toward the Jain Temple.

Jainism is its own religion not a form of Hinduism as is sometimes believed.  There are many beliefs in Jainism but the most well-known is that all living things have a soul.  To this end Jains are strict vegetarians and even cover their noses and mouths to avoid inhaling bugs.  They believe in non-violence in both action and thought.  This temple, Ranakpur Temple, is made of white marble and is intricately carved.  No pictures are allowed here so I bought some postcards.  you'll have to wait until I get home to see them.
I fear I would be a very bad Jain (actually I would never have reached the level of Jain) because while I am at the temple a monkey steals my sunglasses and I have to chase her down and wrestler her to get them back.  I definitely have some violent thoughts toward that monkey.

Sunglasses recovered we hit the washboard, I mean road, to head for Deogarh.  On the way we stop at a roadside shop the makes Dhurri rugs.  These rugs are woven either from cotton, wool, silk or animal hair and are used like carpets on the floor.  The patterns are generally tribal in nature and bear a striking resemblance to Southwestern patterns.








 We also see a well driven by ox power.  There is a nice turn off here and so we atop to take a photo.












The oxen turn a wheel which drives a chain of buckets down to the creek below where they pick up the water and bring it to the storage reservoir.












Finally we arrive at my hotel in Deogarh, Deogarh Mahal.  It is a heritage hotel and a former palace.




My room is spacious and comfortable.  It is not the nicest hotel I have stayed in but it is the best Deogarh has to offer and will do for the night.














Upon reaching my room I collapse into bed.  I am not sure how you can get so tired doing nothing but I am exhausted.  They call me twice to come up to the roof for dinner and I politely decline.  I simply cannot summon the energy or the gastric desire to eat.  Beside, the steps are steep here and I am not confident I have regained my sea legs from the day's drive.

In the morning I enjoy the views from the terrace before meeting my driver. 













Next stop, Jaipur.  I REALLY hope the roads are better.

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