I have spent the last 2 days in Udaipur, the first stop on my tour of the Rajasthan.
Udaipur has several nicknames including “Venice of the East”, “The World’s Most Romantic City” and “The City of Lakes”. It is in fact built around 3 man-made lakes, Lake Pichola being the most famous. The lakes were created by damming the Kapila Nadi River and provide Udaipur with fresh water. I am told that I am lucky that I arrived when I did because poor monsoons over the past 3 years had left lakes nearly dry but this year’s monsoon was good and now the lakes are full again.
Founded in 1559, Udaipur and the surrounding countryside (known as Mewar) is the only region of India to have remained independent throughout its history. The ruling family has consisted of 22 Maharanas all from the same bloodline. The term Maharana references this area’s independent history in its difference from the usual term for the king, Maharaja.
I begin my tour of Udaipur at Jagdish Mandir, the city’s main Hindu temple built in the 1600s. It is dedicated to the Lord Vishnu.
Next I walk to the City Palace. This is the main attraction in Udaipur. It is the largest palace in Rajasthan. The City Palace was started in 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh. It was expanded by 21 subsequent Maharanas.
Entry to City Palace |
I enter the City Palace through the Tripolia Gate:
Above the gate is a large Sun face. The ruling family of Udaipur comes from the Sisodia clan who claim to be direct descendents of the Sun.
The entry courtyard features several wall paintings and the royal stables complete with Rajasthani horses.
The entrance to the Palace features 2 small temples. The first dedicated to Ganesha (god of wisdom, good luck, prosperity and success) and the second to Lakshmi (goddess of wealth). Today we are in time to see the priest cleansing and anointing the statues.
A flight of steep narrow stairs leads to Bari Mahal. From the outside Bari Mahal looks like a rather boring stone tower. But Bari Mahal has a secret. Its stone walls enclose a hilltop. Built in 1699, the hill could not be removed so they built around it. At the top is an amazingly beautiful courtyard complete with the neem trees planted in the hill itself.
Next we see Kanch Burj, the “Glass Turret”. This room is completely inlaid with silver and red glass. SPECTACULAR!!
We enter Mor Chowk, the “Peacock Courtyard”, which houses 4 mosaic peacocks. They are stunning!
The courtyard leads us to Zenana Mahal, the Queens Palace. Here we can see the traditional living quarters for the queen or Maharani.
As we drive through the streets of Udaipur we see a traditional folk dance, Gouri, being performed. The dance depicts scenes from the Hindu epics and is performed over a period of 40 days. This is a treat to see.
After the dance, I stop and take a camel ride. It was fun but, it would have been better if I hadn't had to work so hard to keep from losing my shoes.
After the City Palace we go to Saheliyon ki Bari, “Garden of the Maids of Honor”. The garden was built in the early 1700s for a queen and her maids of honor. The garden features many fountains and flowers.
Our next stop is the Udaipur folk art museum, Bagore ki Haveli. Here we see a variety of folk art including masks, musical instruments and puppets. Rajasthan is known for its puppet making and I even get to see a traditional puppet show.
My final stop for the day involves a boat ride on Lake Pichola which offers marvelous views of Udaipur.
We stop at Jag Mandir, an island palace on the lake, said to be the inspiration for the Taj Mahal. Here I take a break to sip rose tea and enjoy the views.
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